Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Regions / Lombardy

DOCStill huntingModerate

Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC

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IL PROGETTODOCPINOT NERO DELL'OLTREPÒ PAVESEAAIT87315801Denominazione di Origine Controllata

No strip issued. I'm still hunting a bottle.

Still red Pinot Noir from Italy's largest planting of the grape, which the Vistarino family brought here in 1865. Good examples are pale ruby with sour cherry, raspberry, dried rose, a forest-floor earthiness and silky tannin, closer to a Côte Chalonnaise village wine than to anything from the New World. Conte Vistarino's Pernice and Tenuta Mazzolino's Noir are the two serious single-vineyard bottlings. Cheap versions can be thin, so pay for the estate wines.

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Bottles I'm chasing

  • Conte Vistarino

    Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese Pernice

    Single-vineyard flagship; sour cherry, dried rose, forest floor, silky tannin, ages ten years.

    $45 to $60Wine-Searcher
  • Tenuta Mazzolino

    Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese Noir

    Burgundian consultants, French oak; raspberry, spice, more polish and weight than Pernice.

    $40 to $55Wine-Searcher
  • Frecciarossa

    Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese Giorgio Odero

    Historic estate's mid-priced Pinot; cherry, earth, moderate oak, a good first bottle.

    $30 to $40Wine-Searcher