Brunello di Montalcino 2005

Remarkably fresh for a wine of its age, the 2005 San Lorenzo Brunello di Montalcino is an extraordinary aged Sangiovese with decades still in hand. A medium ruby-brick core gives way to a pale orange rim, and the nose offers dried strawberry, mandarin zest, sweet baking spice, and a bright lift of Meyer lemon essence. The palate weaves dried and fresh red fruit together with tomato leaf and pipe tobacco, while hints of dried fig and savory mushroom broth add tertiary depth. Tannins remain present and firm, and moderate-plus acidity keeps the medium-plus to full body lively from start to finish. It should continue to develop for another 10 to 20 years, so any bottle that can be found is worth buying now.