Sanlorenzo

Lorenzo Ferretti bought this land in southwest Montalcino in the late 1800s, and the farm still carries his name. For decades the family raised livestock and sold its grapes to other wineries. Luciano Ciolfi, whose grandfather Bramante Ferretti ran the farm, came back in 1997. In 2000 he closed down the animals and turned the farm into a winery, and his first vintage was 2003.

The 7 hectares are all Sangiovese, certified organic, at about 500 meters. That's high for Montalcino, and in today's warmer years it keeps the wines fresh. Luciano uses no new oak.

The Bramante Riserva, named for his grandfather, is made only in years that clear his bar. Luciano also sets aside some Brunello each vintage and releases it years later, in numbered cases with a certificate of origin. The vertical he poured for me, back to 2005, was one of the best tastings of my trip.