The Italy Wine Project

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Lugana (Lombardy / Veneto) DOC

IL PROGETTODOCLUGANA (LOMBARDY / VENETO)AAIT85576783Denominazione di Origine Controllata

No strip issued. I'm still hunting a bottle.

Turbiana, genetically the same as Verdicchio, grown on heavy white clay at the bottom of the lake, gives one of northern Italy's best-value ageworthy whites. Young Lugana is pale, medium bodied and citrusy with white peach, almond and a chalky, saline finish; Superiore and Riserva, with a year or two of lees or bottle age, turn richer and more honeyed with a smoky, flinty note and drink well at ten years. Cà dei Frati, Zenato, Ottella and Le Morette are the reference houses, and the top cuvées from Cà dei Frati are serious wines. It's the white to buy for people who think Italian whites are simple.

Still hunting

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If you make Lugana (Lombardy / Veneto), import it, or know who does, the form takes two minutes and I reply to every one.

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Bottles I'm chasing

  • Zenato

    Lugana San Benedetto

    The most widely stocked Lugana in the US, citrus, white peach and a light almond finish.

    $16 to $20Wine-Searcher
  • Cà dei Frati

    Lugana I Frati

    The zone's leading estate; more texture and chalk than Zenato, with peach and a saline snap. Ages five years.

    $20 to $25Wine-Searcher
  • Cà dei Frati

    Lugana Brolettino

    Late-picked, partly barrel-fermented Turbiana, honeyed and smoky with a long finish; the serious bottle.

    $28 to $35Wine-Searcher