Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

WhiteLead grape in 1

Bellone

An old Lazio white grown around Cori and Anzio, thicker skinned than most and giving a wine with body, moderate acid and a nutty, faintly honeyed character. It has been a minor blending component for decades and a handful of producers now bottle it on its own, where it turns out to have far more to say.

Worth knowing

It is commonly identified with the grape Pliny the Elder called uva pantastica. The name is usually glossed as a grape as good as bread, or one that goes well with it, and one explanation is that farmhands ate the grapes with their bread.

Where it is allowed8 appellations