Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

WhiteLead grape in 2

Cortese

The grape of Gavi, in the southeast corner of Piedmont near the Ligurian border. High acid, low aroma, lean and citrus driven with a green almond finish. It is a restaurant wine in the best sense: it is clean, it is cold, it goes with fish and it does not demand anything of you. The best sites in Gavi di Gavi give it more texture and a longer finish.

Worth knowing

Its success was built on proximity to Genoa. The port was close, the fish was fresh, and Gavi became the white the Ligurian coast drank long before anyone was exporting it. The style was shaped by what was on the plate forty miles away.

Where it is allowed6 appellations