Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Regions / Lombardy

DOCStill huntingModerate

Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC

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IL PROGETTODOCBONARDA DELL'OLTREPÒ PAVESEAAIT95415741Denominazione di Origine Controllata

No strip issued. I'm still hunting a bottle.

The Oltrepò's bread-and-butter red, made from Croatina, which here is called Bonarda. Usually lightly fizzy and dark purple, with blackberry, plum, violet and a pleasantly bitter, rustic tannin that the light sparkle softens. Some producers make a still, oak-aged version that tastes like a rougher Dolcetto. It's a trattoria wine for salami and risotto, drunk young and often cool.

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If you make Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese, import it, or know who does, the form takes two minutes and I reply to every one.

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Bottles I'm chasing

  • Bruno Verdi

    Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese Campo del Marrone

    Still, oak-aged Croatina from a top family estate; blackberry, violet, bitter-chocolate tannin.

    $20 to $25Wine-Searcher
  • Fiamberti

    Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese Vivace

    Lightly fizzy, dry, plum and blackberry, the classic Pavia trattoria style; small US import.

    $15 to $20Wine-Searcher
  • Giorgi

    Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese

    Large family house with broad distribution; simple, juicy, slightly sweet-edged fizzy red.

    $13 to $18Wine-Searcher