Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

RedLead grape in 20

Barbera

Piedmont's everyday red, and for a long time the one that actually paid the bills while Nebbiolo took the credit. Deep purple, very high acid, and almost no tannin, which is the reverse of the grape it grows next to. It ripens earlier and it will crop on sites Nebbiolo would sulk on. Asti gives the fuller, riper style, Alba the tighter one. Barrique aging came in hard in the 1980s and has since calmed down.

Worth knowing

Acid without tannin makes it unusually good with food and unusually hard to age. Growers who want a serious Barbera are chasing ripeness to soften the acid, which is the opposite problem to the one they have with Nebbiolo.

Where it is allowed40 appellations