Bosco Eliceo DOC

These are the 'vini delle sabbie', wines of the sand, grown on ungrafted vines in the dune soils between Comacchio and the Adriatic where phylloxera can't survive. Fortana is the signature: a rustic, low-alcohol red, usually frizzante, with tart cranberry and blackberry, a sharp acid line, drying tannin and a slightly bitter finish, meant for eel and grilled fish from the lagoon. The whites are simple and briny. Curiosity value is high, and it tastes like nowhere else in Italy.