The Italy Wine Project

Regions / Lombardy

DOCStill huntingModerate

Oltrepò Pavese DOC

A sprawling DOC that supplies Milan with cheap, honest wine of every color: fizzy reds, still Barbera, Riesling, Moscato, Pinot Nero and Charmat sparklers. The Barbera-Croatina reds are plum and cherry-flavored with bright acidity; the Riesling (much of it Riesling Italico) is dry, appley and slightly waxy; the Charmat sparklers are simple and clean. Quality varies enormously because the cooperatives dominate. Bruno Verdi, Frecciarossa, Conte Vistarino and Tenuta Mazzolino are safe.

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Bottles I'm chasing

ProducerWinePriceBuy
Bruno Verdi
Oltrepò Pavese Riesling Vigna Costa
Riesling Renano from a top estate; lime, green apple, a waxy texture and dry mineral finish.
$20 to $25Wine-Searcher
Frecciarossa
Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Villa Odero
Historic estate's Barbera and Croatina blend; cherry, plum, pepper, medium body, soft tannin.
$18 to $25Wine-Searcher
Cantina di Casteggio
Oltrepò Pavese Barbera
Cooperative bottling with broad US distribution; simple, tart, cherry-driven Barbera for weeknights.
$12 to $16Wine-Searcher