Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

WhiteLead grape in 10

Garganega

Soave. It is a late ripener with big loose bunches, and left to crop it makes something thin, which is how Soave earned its bad reputation in the 1970s. Grown properly on the volcanic hills of the Classico zone it gives a wine with white peach, camomile and a finish like bitter almond, and it has far more staying power than anyone expects.

Worth knowing

It is the same vine as Grecanico in Sicily, which is a long way from Verona. Its skins are thin enough to take noble rot, and Recioto di Soave is made from bunches hung to dry in lofts through the winter.

Where it is allowed14 appellations