Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Study / Region guides

Marche

5 DOCGs and 15 DOCs. Examined in Unit 2: Central and Southern Italy.

Borders
Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Abruzzo
Wine provinces
Macerata, Ancona, Ascoli Piceno, Pesaro, Fermo

The land

The Marche faces the Adriatic. A row of river valleys runs from the Apennines straight down to the sea, and the vineyards sit on the hills between them.

Verdicchio has two zones: Castelli di Jesi, open to the sea, and Matelica, a higher valley closed off from it. Monte Conero is a limestone headland on the coast by Ancona. The Piceno hills are in the south.

The grapes

Verdicchio is the grape to know, and it ages better than most Italian whites. Pecorino and Passerina are the whites of the south.

Montepulciano and Sangiovese make the reds, alone or blended. Lacrima and Vernaccia Nera are the aromatic local reds.

Which grape leads which appellation

Verdicchio 5
Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva, Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva, Esino, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Verdicchio di Matelica
Montepulciano 2
Cònero, Rosso Cònero
Vernaccia Nera 2
Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, Serrapetrona
Aleatico 1
Pergola
Bianchello 1
Bianchello del Metauro
Lacrima 1
Lacrima di Morro d'Alba
Passerina 1
Terre di Offida

Local names

Focara
Pinot Nero, in Colli Pesaresi
Maceratino
Ribona, in Colli Maceratesi

In the vineyard and cellar

Most Verdicchio is made in steel, with the riserva wines aged longer. Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is the curiosity: a sparkling red made partly from dried grapes.

History and trade

Verdicchio became famous abroad in the 1950s in an amphora shaped bottle. The reputation for serious wine came later.

The DOCGs

Oldest first. The year is when each one became a DOCG.

AppellationDOCG sinceGrapesWhere
Cònero2004Montepulciano (min 85%), SangioveseMonte Conero, the limestone headland just south of Ancona
Vernaccia di Serrapetrona2004Vernaccia Nera (min 85%)Macerata
Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva2010Verdicchio (min 85%)Ancona, Macerata
Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva2010Verdicchio (min 85%)Macerata, Ancona
Offida2011Pecorino, Passerina, MontepulcianoAscoli Piceno

The DOCs

AppellationDOC sinceGrapesWhere
Bianchello del Metauro1969Bianchello (Biancame, min 95%)Pesaro
Colli Maceratesi1975Ribona (Maceratino), SangioveseMacerata
Colli Pesaresi1972Sangiovese, Pinot Nero (Focara), Trebbiano, BiancamePesaro
Esino1995Verdicchio (min 50%), Sangiovese, MontepulcianoAncona, Macerata
Falerio1975Trebbiano Toscano, Passerina, PecorinoAscoli Piceno, Fermo
I Terreni di Sanseverino2004Vernaccia Nera (Moro), Montepulciano, SangioveseMacerata
Lacrima di Morro d'Alba1985Lacrima (min 85%)Ancona
Pergola2005Aleatico (locally called Vernaccia di Pergola, min 85%)Pesaro
Rosso Cònero1967Montepulciano (min 85%), SangioveseMonte Conero and surrounding communes south of Ancona
Rosso Piceno (Piceno)1968Montepulciano (35 to 85%), Sangiovese (15 to 50%)Ascoli Piceno, Fermo, Macerata, Ancona
San Ginesio2007Vernaccia Nera, Sangiovese, MontepulcianoSan Ginesio and neighboring communes in the hills southwest of Macerata
Serrapetrona2004Vernaccia Nera (min 85%)Macerata
Terre di Offida2011Passerina (min 85%)Ascoli Piceno, Fermo
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi1968Verdicchio (min 85%)Ancona, Macerata
Verdicchio di Matelica1967Verdicchio (min 85%)Macerata, Ancona

Facts that get tested

The kind of thing an exam asks about Marche. Cover the answers and try them.

  1. How does Verdicchio di Matelica differ from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi?

    Matelica is smaller, higher and further inland. Matelica sits in an enclosed valley that runs north to south, cut off from the sea, and gives firmer wines with more acidity.

  2. Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is

    A sparkling red made partly from dried grapes. It comes from Vernaccia Nera, with at least 40% of the grapes dried. It is made both dry and sweet.

  3. Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is

    An aromatic red from the province of Ancona. This Morro d'Alba is in the Marche and has nothing to do with Alba in Piedmont.

  4. Offida DOCG covers which wines?

    Whites from Pecorino and Passerina and a red from Montepulciano. Offida is in the south of the region, in the province of Ascoli Piceno.

  5. Rosso Piceno is a blend of which two grapes?

    Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Cònero, by contrast, is at least 85% Montepulciano.

Think you've got it?

Twenty questions on Marche, with every wrong answer drawn from the region and its neighbours.

Quiz me on Marche