Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

WhiteLead grape in 8

Friulano

Also called Sauvignonasse, Tai, Tocai Friulano, Trebbianello, Tuchì.

The white of Friuli and the Collio, grown on the marl and sandstone the locals call ponca. It gives pear, hay and a distinct bitter almond finish, with a waxy texture that separates it from every other white in the region. It is the wine poured in the osterie of Udine and Gorizia by the glass, and the serious versions age for a decade.

Worth knowing

It used to be called Tocai Friulano until the European Court ruled in Hungary's favour over the name Tokaj, and from 2007 the region had to drop it. Friuli lost a name it had used for centuries to a place five hundred miles away that makes a completely different wine.

Where it is allowed21 appellations