Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Study / Region guides

Sicily (Sicilia)

1 DOCG and 23 DOCs. Examined in Unit 2: Central and Southern Italy.

Borders
Calabria, Sardinia
Wine provinces
Trapani, Agrigento, Palermo, Ragusa, Caltanissetta, Siracusa, Catania, Messina

The land

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and it is hot and dry. Irrigation and altitude matter more than anywhere else in Italy.

The west, around Trapani, is where most of the vineyard is, along with Marsala. The southeast has Vittoria and Noto. Etna, in the east, is a world of its own, with vineyards above 1,000 metres on black volcanic soil.

The small islands count too: Pantelleria toward Africa and the Aeolian Islands off the north coast.

The grapes

Catarratto is the most planted grape, followed by Nero d'Avola. Grillo and Inzolia are the other western whites.

Etna has its own grapes, Nerello Mascalese for red and Carricante for white. Frappato belongs to Vittoria and Zibibbo to Pantelleria.

Which grape leads which appellation

Catarratto 1
Alcamo
Malvasia di Lipari 1
Malvasia delle Lipari
Nero d'Avola 1
Cerasuolo di Vittoria
Zibibbo 1
Pantelleria

Local names

Ansonica
Inzolia, in Contessa Entellina, Santa Margherita di Belice
Calabrese
Nero d'Avola, in Alcamo
Moscato d'Alessandria
Zibibbo, in Pantelleria
Pignatello
Perricone, in Eloro

In the vineyard and cellar

Marsala is fortified and sorted by colour, sweetness and age. Bush vines are still the rule on Etna and Pantelleria.

History and trade

John Woodhouse began the Marsala trade in 1773. For most of the 20th century Sicily sold bulk wine, and its move to quality bottled wine dates from the 1990s.

The DOCGs

Oldest first. The year is when each one became a DOCG.

AppellationDOCG sinceGrapesWhere
Cerasuolo di Vittoria2005Nero d'Avola (50 to 70%), Frappato (30 to 50%)Ragusa

The DOCs

AppellationDOC sinceGrapesWhere
Alcamo1972Catarratto (white, min 60%), Nero d'Avola, Calabrese, Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot (reds)Trapani, Palermo
Contea di Sclafani1996Nero d'Avola, Perricone, Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Chardonnay, Cabernet, SyrahPalermo, Caltanissetta, Agrigento
Contessa Entellina1993Nero d'Avola, Ansonica (Inzolia), Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, GrecanicoPalermo
Delia Nivolelli1998Grillo, Inzolia, Catarratto, Nero d'Avola, Syrah, Cabernet SauvignonTrapani
Eloro1994Nero d'Avola, Frappato, PignatelloSiracusa, Ragusa
Erice2004Catarratto, Grillo, Inzolia, Müller Thurgau, Chardonnay, Nero d'Avola, Syrah, Cabernet, MerlotTrapani
Etna1968Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio (red); Carricante, Catarratto (white)Catania
Faro1976Nerello Mascalese (45 to 60%), Nerello Cappuccio (15 to 30%), Nocera (5 to 10%), Nero d'Avola, Gaglioppo, SangioveseHills above Messina on the Strait, northeastern Sicily
Malvasia delle Lipari1973Malvasia di Lipari (95%), Corinto Nero (5 to 8%)Messina
Mamertino di Milazzo (Mamertino)2004Nero d'Avola, Nocera (reds); Grillo, Inzolia, Catarratto (whites)Messina
Marsala1969Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia, Damaschino (Oro and Ambra); Nero d'Avola, Perricone, Nerello Mascalese (Rubino)Trapani
Menfi1995Chardonnay, Fiano, Grillo, Inzolia, Grecanico, Nero d'Avola, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, MerlotAgrigento, Trapani
Monreale2000Catarratto, Inzolia, Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Perricone, Syrah, Cabernet SauvignonPalermo
NotoNero d'Avola (reds); Moscato Bianco (sweet whites)Siracusa
PantelleriaZibibbo (Moscato d'Alessandria)Trapani
Riesi2001Nero d'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon (reds); Inzolia, Chardonnay (whites)Caltanissetta
Salaparuta2006Catarratto, Grillo, Inzolia, Nero d'Avola, Syrah, MerlotTrapani
Sambuca di Sicilia1995Nero d'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Inzolia, GrecanicoAgrigento
Santa Margherita di Belice1996Catarratto, Ansonica (Inzolia), Grecanico, Nero d'Avola, SangioveseAgrigento
Sciacca1998Inzolia, Grecanico, Chardonnay, Nero d'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, SangioveseAgrigento
Sicilia2011Nero d'Avola, Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia, Frappato, Perricone, Nerello Mascalese, Syrah, ChardonnayEntire island
SiracusaMoscato Bianco, Nero d'Avola, SyrahCommune of Siracusa, southeastern Sicily
Vittoria2005Frappato, Nero d'Avola, InzoliaRagusa, Caltanissetta, Catania

Facts that get tested

The kind of thing an exam asks about Sicily. Cover the answers and try them.

  1. What is the blend for Cerasuolo di Vittoria?

    Nero d'Avola with 30% to 50% Frappato. Nero d'Avola makes up 50% to 70% and Frappato the rest. It is Sicily's only DOCG.

  2. Which grapes lead Etna Rosso and Etna Bianco?

    Nerello Mascalese and Carricante. Etna Rosso is at least 80% Nerello Mascalese. Etna Bianco is at least 60% Carricante.

  3. On Etna, what is a contrada?

    A named district that can appear on the label. There are more than 130 official contrade, each tied to particular lava flows and altitudes.

  4. Who began the Marsala trade in 1773?

    John Woodhouse. The English merchant fortified the local wine so it would survive the voyage home. Ingham and Florio followed.

  5. How long must Marsala Vergine age?

    At least 5 years. Fine needs 1 year, Superiore 2, Superiore Riserva 4, Vergine 5 and Vergine Stravecchio 10.

  6. What are the three colour categories of Marsala?

    Oro, Ambra and Rubino. Oro and Ambra come from white grapes, Rubino from red. Only Ambra may have cooked must added.

  7. Which grape is most prized for Marsala?

    Grillo. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia are the main white grapes, with Grillo valued for its body and sugar.

  8. Zibibbo, the grape of Pantelleria, is also known as

    Moscato d'Alessandria. Muscat of Alexandria. On Pantelleria it is grown as low bush vines in hollows dug to shelter them from the wind.

  9. Malvasia delle Lipari comes from which islands?

    The Aeolian Islands. Most of it is grown on Salina. A little Corinto Nero goes into the blend.

  10. Faro DOC lies in which province?

    Messina. It sits on the northeastern tip of Sicily facing Calabria, and is based on Nerello Mascalese.

  11. Which is Sicily's most planted grape?

    Catarratto. Catarratto covers more vineyard than any other variety on the island.

  12. Which best describes Frappato?

    Pale, light and aromatic. Frappato brings perfume and freshness to Cerasuolo di Vittoria, and is bottled alone as Vittoria Frappato.

Think you've got it?

Twenty questions on Sicily, with every wrong answer drawn from the region and its neighbours.

Quiz me on Sicily