Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

RedLead grape in 8

Dolcetto

Also called Ormeasco.

Piedmont's early red, planted on the sites where Nebbiolo would not ripen and picked weeks before it. Deep purple, low acid, soft to moderate tannin, with black cherry and almond and a faintly bitter finish. It is made to drink within a couple of years, which in a region obsessed with aging makes it the wine the growers actually open at lunch. Dogliani and Diano d'Alba make the versions with some ambition.

Worth knowing

The name means little sweet one and the wine is bone dry. It refers to the grape being sweet to eat off the vine. The early harvest was the real point: it cleared the cellar and paid the wages before the long wait for Nebbiolo.

Where it is allowed19 appellations