Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

RedLead grape in 23

Nebbiolo

Also called Chiavennasca, Picotendro, Prünent, Spanna.

The grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, and the fussiest thing in Piedmont. It buds early, ripens last, and wants the marl and sandstone hills of the Langhe facing the right way or it gives you nothing. In the glass it's pale garnet and looks light, then arrives with high acid and a wall of drying tannin. Tar and roses is the old description and it is accurate. With ten years it turns to leather, truffle, camphor and dried cherry.

Worth knowing

The colour lies. It is one of the palest serious reds in the world and one of the most tannic, and it browns at the rim while it is still young. Almost nowhere outside a narrow band of northwest Italy has ever made it work.

Where it is allowed28 appellations