Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

WhiteLead grape in 7

Vermentino

Also called Favorita, Pigato.

The white of the Tyrrhenian coast, from Liguria down through Tuscany to Sardinia, where it has its own DOCG in Gallura. Sea air, granite and sand suit it. It gives citrus, green almond and a saline, faintly bitter finish, with more body than you expect from something that tastes this fresh. Sardinia makes the fullest version, Liguria the tightest.

Worth knowing

It is the same vine as Pigato in Liguria and Favorita in Piedmont, which is a fact best introduced carefully in any of the three places. The differences that people taste are real, and they come from site and from selection rather than from the vine being different.

Where it is allowed25 appellations