Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Study / Region guides

Puglia

4 DOCGs and 28 DOCs. Examined in Unit 2: Central and Southern Italy.

Borders
Molise, Campania, Basilicata
Wine provinces
Brindisi, Lecce, Taranto, Barletta-Andria-Trani, Foggia, Bari

The land

Puglia is the heel of the boot: long, mostly flat and hot. Red soil over limestone is typical.

Think of it in three parts. The north has the Murge plateau and Castel del Monte. The centre has the Valle d'Itria and Gioia del Colle. The south is the Salento peninsula, with sea on both sides.

The grapes

Nero di Troia and Bombino lead in the north. Primitivo grows at Gioia del Colle and Manduria. Negroamaro rules the Salento, often blended with Malvasia Nera.

Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano make the whites of the Valle d'Itria.

Which grape leads which appellation

Negroamaro 10
Alezio, Brindisi, Copertino, Galatina, Lizzano, Matino, Nardò, Negroamaro di Terra d'Otranto, Salice Salentino, Squinzano
Nero di Troia 5
Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva, Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva, Barletta, Rosso di Cerignola, Tavoliere delle Puglie (Tavoliere)
Primitivo 2
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, Primitivo di Manduria
Verdeca 2
Locorotondo, Martina (Martina Franca)
Aleatico 1
Aleatico di Puglia
Bombino Nero 1
Castel del Monte Bombino Nero
Moscato Bianco 1
Moscato di Trani
Sangiovese 1
Orta Nova

Local names

Cinsault
Ottavianello, in Ostuni
Moscato Reale
Moscato Bianco, in Moscato di Trani
Pampanuto
Bombino Bianco, in Castel del Monte

In the vineyard and cellar

Old bush vines survive across the Salento and around Manduria. Puglia has a long rosato tradition, mostly from Negroamaro.

History and trade

For most of the 20th century Puglia sent strong red wine north to add colour and alcohol to other regions' blends. Bottling under its own name is a recent change.

The DOCGs

Oldest first. The year is when each one became a DOCG.

AppellationDOCG sinceGrapesWhere
Castel del Monte Bombino Nero2011Bombino Nero (min 90%)Barletta-Andria-Trani
Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva2011Nero di Troia (min 90%)Barletta-Andria-Trani
Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva2011Nero di Troia (min 65%), Aglianico, MontepulcianoBarletta-Andria-Trani
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale2011Primitivo (100%)Taranto, Brindisi

The DOCs

AppellationDOC sinceGrapesWhere
Aleatico di Puglia1973Aleatico (min 85%), Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, PrimitivoWhole region of Puglia
Alezio1983Negroamaro (min 80%), Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese, MontepulcianoLecce
Barletta1977Nero di Troia (min 70%), Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Malbec; Malvasia Bianca for whitesBarletta-Andria-Trani, Foggia
Brindisi1979Negroamaro (min 70%), Malvasia Nera, Susumaniello, Montepulciano, SangioveseBrindisi
Cacc'e Mmitte di Lucera1975Nero di Troia (35 to 60%), Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Malvasia Nera, plus 15 to 30% white grapes (Trebbiano, Bombino Bianco, Malvasia)Foggia
Castel del Monte1971Nero di Troia, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Bombino Nero, Bombino Bianco, Chardonnay, PampanutoBarletta-Andria-Trani
Colline Joniche Tarantine2008Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Verdeca, FianoTaranto
Copertino1976Negroamaro (min 70%), Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, SangioveseLecce
Galatina1997Negroamaro (min 65%), Chardonnay (bianco)Lecce
Gioia del Colle1987Primitivo, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Trebbiano, AleaticoBari
Gravina1983Malvasia Bianca, Greco di Tufo, Bianco d'Alessano, Bombino Bianco, Trebbiano, VerdecaBari
Leverano1979Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Malvasia Bianca, Bombino BiancoLecce
Lizzano1988Negroamaro (60 to 80%), Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Bombino Nero, Malvasia Nera, Trebbiano, ChardonnayTaranto
Locorotondo1969Verdeca (50 to 65%), Bianco d'Alessano (35 to 50%), Fiano, Bombino Bianco, MalvasiaBari, Brindisi
Martina (Martina Franca)1969Verdeca (50 to 65%), Bianco d'Alessano (35 to 50%), Fiano, Bombino Bianco, Malvasia BiancaTaranto, Bari, Brindisi
Matino1971Negroamaro (min 70%), Malvasia Nera, SangioveseLecce
Moscato di Trani1974Moscato Bianco (Moscato Reale, min 85%)Barletta-Andria-Trani
Nardò1987Negroamaro (min 80%), Malvasia Nera, MontepulcianoLecce
Negroamaro di Terra d'Otranto2011Negroamaro (min 90%)Lecce, Brindisi, Taranto
Orta Nova1984Sangiovese (min 60%), Nero di Troia, Montepulciano, Lambrusco Maestri, TrebbianoFoggia
Ostuni1972Impigno, Francavilla (bianco); Ottavianello (Cinsault) for the redBrindisi
Primitivo di Manduria1974Primitivo (min 85%)Taranto, Brindisi
Rosso di Cerignola1974Nero di Troia (min 55%), Negroamaro (15 to 30%), Sangiovese, Barbera, Montepulciano, Malbec, TrebbianoFoggia
Salice Salentino1976Negroamaro (min 75% for rosso), Malvasia Nera, Fiano, Chardonnay, AleaticoLecce, Brindisi
San Severo1968Bombino Bianco, Trebbiano Toscano, Montepulciano, Nero di Troia, SangioveseFoggia
Squinzano1976Negroamaro (min 70%), Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese, MontepulcianoLecce, Brindisi
Tavoliere delle Puglie (Tavoliere)2011Nero di Troia (min 65%, 90% for the varietal)Foggia
Terra d'Otranto2011Negroamaro, Primitivo, Malvasia Nera, Aleatico, Malvasia Bianca, Verdeca, FianoLecce, Brindisi, Taranto

Facts that get tested

The kind of thing an exam asks about Puglia. Cover the answers and try them.

  1. Primitivo is genetically the same as which grape?

    Zinfandel. Both are the Croatian variety Tribidrag, also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski.

  2. How many DOCGs carry the Castel del Monte name?

    3. Castel del Monte Bombino Nero, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva and Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva.

  3. Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG is made only as

    Rosato. It is Italy's only DOCG reserved for rosato.

  4. Puglia's Primitivo DOCG is for which style?

    A naturally sweet red. Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale is sweet without fortification. Dry Primitivo di Manduria is a DOC.

  5. Which grape is Negroamaro traditionally blended with in the Salento?

    Malvasia Nera. Salice Salentino is the best known example.

  6. The whites of Locorotondo and Martina Franca are based on which grapes?

    Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano. Both come from the Valle d'Itria, the land of the trulli.

  7. Puglia's Leone de Castris made which Italian first in 1943?

    The first rosato bottled and sold in Italy. Five Roses, a Negroamaro rosato, was made for the American forces then in Puglia.

  8. How does Gioia del Colle differ from Manduria as a home for Primitivo?

    It is higher, on the Murge plateau. The altitude, around 350 metres, gives fresher wines with less alcohol.

Think you've got it?

Twenty questions on Puglia, with every wrong answer drawn from the region and its neighbours.

Quiz me on Puglia