Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Study / Region guides

Piedmont (Piemonte)

19 DOCGs and 41 DOCs. Examined in Unit 1: Northern Italy.

Borders
Valle d'Aosta, Liguria, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna
Wine provinces
Asti, Cuneo, Alessandria, Turin, Novara, Vercelli, Biella, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola

The land

Piedmont means foot of the mountain, and the Alps wrap around it on three sides. The climate is continental: cold winters, hot summers and fog in the autumn.

The vineyards that matter are on hills. The Langhe, Roero and Monferrato lie south and east of Turin, and a cooler group called Alto Piemonte sits in the north near Lake Maggiore. The Tanaro river divides the Langhe on its right bank from Roero on its left.

Langhe soils are calcareous marl. Roero is sandier. Alto Piemonte is older volcanic rock and glacial debris, which gives Nebbiolo more acidity and less weight.

The grapes

Nebbiolo makes the famous wines but covers a small part of the vineyard. Barbera is the most planted red, with high acid and little tannin. Dolcetto is the everyday red and the earliest to ripen.

Moscato Bianco is the main white, followed by Cortese in Gavi and Arneis in Roero. Erbaluce and Timorasso are small but worth knowing.

Learn the local names for Nebbiolo. It is Spanna in Alto Piemonte and Picotendro near the Valle d'Aosta border.

Which grape leads which appellation

Nebbiolo 11
Barbaresco, Barolo, Gattinara, Ghemme, Roero, Terre Alfieri, Alba, Albugnano, Boca, Bramaterra, Carema
Barbera 6
Barbera d'Asti, Barbera del Monferrato Superiore, Nizza, Barbera d'Alba, Barbera del Monferrato, Rubino di Cantavenna
Moscato Bianco 4
Asti, Canelli, Loazzolo, Strevi
Dolcetto 3
Dogliani, Dolcetto di Diano d'Alba (Diano d'Alba), Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore (Ovada)
Brachetto 1
Brachetto d'Acqui (Acqui)
Cortese 1
Gavi (Cortese di Gavi)
Croatina 1
Cisterna d'Asti
Erbaluce 1
Erbaluce di Caluso (Caluso)

Local names

Cari
Pelaverga, in Collina Torinese
Picotendro
Nebbiolo, in Carema
Prünent
Nebbiolo, in Valli Ossolane
Spanna
Nebbiolo, in Gattinara, Ghemme, Boca, Bramaterra, Colline Novaresi, Coste della Sesia, Fara, Lessona, Sizzano

In the vineyard and cellar

Barolo and Barbaresco were once split between long macerations in large old casks and shorter ones in new barriques. Most producers now work somewhere in between.

Asti and Moscato d'Asti get their fizz from one tank fermentation that is chilled and stopped while the wine is still sweet. Alta Langa is the region's metodo classico.

History and trade

The House of Savoy ruled from Turin, and dry Barolo took shape in the middle of the 19th century. Carlo Gancia made Italy's first metodo classico sparkling wine at Canelli in 1865.

Holdings are small and many growers bottle their own wine, which is why single vineyards matter so much here. Piedmont has no IGT at all.

The DOCGs

Oldest first. The year is when each one became a DOCG.

AppellationDOCG sinceGrapesWhere
Barbaresco1980NebbioloCuneo
Barolo1980NebbioloCuneo
Gattinara1990Nebbiolo (Spanna, min 90%), Vespolina, Uva RaraVercelli
Asti1993Moscato BiancoAsti, Cuneo, Alessandria
Brachetto d'Acqui (Acqui)1996Brachetto (min 97%)Asti, Alessandria
Ghemme1997Nebbiolo (Spanna, min 85%), Vespolina, Uva RaraNovara
Gavi (Cortese di Gavi)1998Cortese (100%)Alessandria
Roero2004Nebbiolo (red, min 95%); Arneis (white)Cuneo
Dogliani2005Dolcetto (100%)Cuneo
Barbera d'Asti2008Barbera (min 90%), Freisa, Grignolino, DolcettoAsti
Barbera del Monferrato Superiore2008Barbera (min 85%), Freisa, Grignolino, DolcettoAsti, Alessandria
Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore (Ovada)2008Dolcetto (min 97%)Alessandria
Dolcetto di Diano d'Alba (Diano d'Alba)2010Dolcetto (100%)Cuneo
Erbaluce di Caluso (Caluso)2010Erbaluce (100%)Turin
Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato2010Ruchè (min 90%), Barbera, BrachettoAsti
Alta Langa2011Pinot Nero, ChardonnayCuneo, Asti, Alessandria
Nizza2014Barbera (100%)Asti
Terre Alfieri2020Nebbiolo (min 85%), Arneis (min 85%)Cuneo, Asti
Canelli2023Moscato BiancoAsti, Cuneo

The DOCs

AppellationDOC sinceGrapesWhere
Alba2010Nebbiolo (70-85%), Barbera (15-30%)Cuneo
Albugnano1997Nebbiolo (min 85%), Freisa, Barbera, BonardaAsti
Barbera d'Alba1970Barbera (min 85%), NebbioloCuneo
Barbera del Monferrato1970Barbera (min 85%), Freisa, Grignolino, DolcettoAsti, Alessandria
Boca1969Nebbiolo (Spanna, 70-90%), Vespolina, Uva RaraNovara
Bramaterra1979Nebbiolo (Spanna, 50-80%), Croatina, Vespolina, Uva RaraVercelli, Biella
Calosso2011Gamba di Pernice (min 90%)Asti
Canavese1996Nebbiolo, Barbera, Bonarda (Uva Rara), Freisa, Neretto; Erbaluce (white)Turin
Carema1967Nebbiolo (Picotendro, min 85%)Turin
Cisterna d'Asti2002Croatina (min 80%), other local redsCisterna d'Asti and neighboring communes on the Roero-Asti border
Colli Tortonesi1973Timorasso, Barbera, Croatina, Cortese, DolcettoAlessandria
Collina Torinese1999Barbera, Bonarda (Uva Rara), Freisa, Cari (Pelaverga di Cari), MalvasiaTurin
Colline Novaresi1994Nebbiolo (Spanna), Vespolina, Uva Rara, Croatina, ErbaluceNovara
Colline Saluzzesi1996Pelaverga (Pelaverga Grosso), Quagliano, Barbera, Nebbiolo, ChatusCuneo
Cortese dell'Alto Monferrato1979CorteseAlessandria, Asti
Coste della Sesia1996Nebbiolo (Spanna), Vespolina, Croatina, Uva Rara, ErbaluceVercelli, Biella
Dolcetto d'Acqui1972DolcettoAlessandria
Dolcetto d'Alba1974DolcettoCuneo
Dolcetto d'Asti1974DolcettoAsti
Dolcetto di Ovada1972DolcettoAlessandria
Fara1969Nebbiolo (Spanna), Vespolina, Uva RaraNovara
Freisa d'Asti1972FreisaAsti
Freisa di Chieri1973FreisaTurin
Gabiano1983Barbera, Freisa, GrignolinoAlessandria
Grignolino d'Asti1973Grignolino, Freisa (up to 10 percent)Asti
Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese1974Grignolino, Freisa (up to 10 percent)Alessandria
Langhe1994Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Chardonnay, Arneis, Nascetta, FreisaCuneo
Lessona1976Nebbiolo (Spanna), Vespolina, Uva RaraBiella
Loazzolo1992Moscato BiancoAsti
Malvasia di Casorzo d'Asti (Casorzo)1985Malvasia di Casorzo (Malvasia Nera), Freisa, Grignolino, BarberaCasorzo and neighboring villages on the Asti-Alessandria border, Monferrato
Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco1973Malvasia di Schierano, Freisa (up to 15 percent)Asti
Monferrato1994Barbera, Nebbiolo, Freisa, Dolcetto, Cortese, plus Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Chardonnay and Sauvignon in blendsAsti, Alessandria
Nebbiolo d'Alba1970NebbioloCuneo
Piemonte1994Barbera, Cortese, Chardonnay, Moscato, Dolcetto, Pinot Nero, Brachetto, AlbarossaRegional DOC covering nearly all of Piedmont's vineyard land
Pinerolese1996Barbera, Bonarda, Freisa, Neretto, Avanà, Avarengo, Doux d'Henry, ChatusTurin
Rubino di Cantavenna1970Barbera (75 to 90 percent), Grignolino, FreisaAlessandria
Sizzano1969Nebbiolo (Spanna), Vespolina, Uva RaraNovara
Strevi2005Moscato BiancoAlessandria
Valli Ossolane2009Nebbiolo (local clone Prünent), Croatina, Merlot, ChardonnayVerbano-Cusio-Ossola
Valsusa1997Avanà, Becuet, Barbera, Dolcetto, Neretta Cuneese, Baratuciat (white)Turin
Verduno Pelaverga (Verduno)1995Pelaverga PiccoloCuneo

Facts that get tested

The kind of thing an exam asks about Piedmont. Cover the answers and try them.

  1. What is the minimum ageing for Barolo?

    38 months, 18 of them in wood. Barolo needs 38 months from 1 November of the harvest year, with 18 in wood. The Riserva needs 62.

  2. How long must Barolo Riserva age?

    62 months. 62 months, a little over five years, against 38 for the standard wine.

  3. What is the minimum ageing for Barbaresco?

    26 months, 9 of them in wood. Barbaresco needs a year less than Barolo: 26 months with 9 in wood, and 50 months for the Riserva.

  4. How long must Barbaresco Riserva age?

    50 months. 50 months. Barolo Riserva needs 62.

  5. Which of these is not a Barolo commune?

    Neive. Neive is in Barbaresco. Barolo covers 11 communes, with La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba and Monforte d'Alba making most of the wine.

  6. Which three communes make nearly all Barbaresco?

    Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso. Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso, plus a small part of Alba at San Rocco Seno d'Elvio.

  7. Which Barolo communes sit mostly on older Serravallian soils and tend to give the most structured wines?

    Serralunga d'Alba and Monforte d'Alba. The eastern side has compact, sandstone-rich Serravallian (once called Helvetian) soils. La Morra and Barolo, on younger Tortonian marls, give more perfumed wines that open sooner.

  8. Which river separates the Langhe from Roero?

    Tanaro. Roero sits on the left bank of the Tanaro, the Langhe on the right.

  9. How do Roero's soils differ from those of the Langhe?

    They are sandier. Roero's sandy soils give lighter, earlier drinking Nebbiolo and suit the white Arneis.

  10. Roero DOCG covers which wines?

    Red from Nebbiolo and white from Arneis. Roero is a red from at least 95% Nebbiolo. Roero Arneis is the white.

  11. Which white grape was once nicknamed Nebbiolo Bianco?

    Arneis. Arneis was planted among Nebbiolo vines in Roero, partly to soften the red and partly to draw birds away from it.

  12. Nebbiolo most likely takes its name from

    Nebbia, the fog of harvest time. It ripens late, into the foggy weeks of October. Some also point to the thick bloom on the grapes.

  13. Which best describes Barbera?

    High acidity and low tannin. Deep colour, bright acidity and very little tannin. Dolcetto is closer to the reverse.

  14. What must Nizza DOCG be made from?

    100% Barbera. Nizza was a subzone of Barbera d'Asti until it became its own DOCG in 2014. It allows nothing but Barbera.

  15. Which of these Dolcetto wines is a DOC, not a DOCG?

    Dolcetto d'Alba. Piedmont has three Dolcetto DOCGs: Dogliani, Diano d'Alba and Ovada Superiore. Dolcetto d'Alba is a DOC.

  16. Gattinara and Ghemme face each other across which river?

    Sesia. Gattinara is on the Vercelli side of the Sesia and Ghemme on the Novara side. Both are Nebbiolo, known locally as Spanna.

  17. How does Asti Spumante get its bubbles?

    One tank fermentation, stopped while sugar remains. The Asti method ferments the must once in a pressure tank and chills it to stop while the wine is still sweet and low in alcohol.

  18. How does Moscato d'Asti compare with Asti Spumante?

    Lower in alcohol and only lightly fizzy. Moscato d'Asti is frizzante at around 5% alcohol. Both are Moscato Bianco.

  19. Brachetto d'Acqui is best known as

    A sweet, aromatic red, usually sparkling. Low in alcohol and scented with rose and strawberry. Think of it as the red counterpart to Asti.

  20. Alta Langa DOCG is

    Vintage metodo classico from Pinot Nero and Chardonnay. Always vintage dated, with at least 30 months on the lees.

  21. Timorasso is the white grape behind the revival of which zone?

    Colli Tortonesi. Walter Massa rescued it in the hills around Tortona. The wines are often labelled Derthona.

  22. Which Barolo commune also has its own DOC for the pale, peppery red Pelaverga?

    Verduno. Verduno Pelaverga comes from Pelaverga Piccolo, grown almost nowhere else.

  23. In Barolo and Barbaresco, what is an MGA?

    An officially delimited, named vineyard area. Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive are the mapped crus that can appear on the label, such as Cannubi or Rabajà.

  24. Which of these is true of Piedmont?

    It has no IGT. Piedmont never created an IGT, so everything is DOC, DOCG or plain vino. It has more DOCGs than any other region.

Think you've got it?

Twenty questions on Piedmont, with every wrong answer drawn from the region and its neighbours.

Quiz me on Piedmont