Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Grapes

RedLead grape in 13

Montepulciano

Also called Violone.

Abruzzo's red, and the reason cheap Italian red is usually drinkable. Deep, almost opaque colour, soft tannin, low acid, and dark plummy fruit with a bitter edge on the finish that keeps it from being flabby. It crops generously, which is why so much of it is ordinary, and the growers who cut yields on the hillsides make something with real density.

Worth knowing

It has nothing to do with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is Sangiovese from a town of that name in Tuscany. Two centuries of confusion in one word. Its pink version, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, is a proper rosato with the colour of cherry juice and enough grip to drink with food.

Where it is allowed46 appellations