Also by Jeremy Young:The Italy Wine ProjectThe Humidor Project
The Italy Wine Project

Study / Region guides

Tuscany (Toscana)

11 DOCGs and 40 DOCs. Examined in Unit 2: Central and Southern Italy.

Borders
Liguria, Emilia-Romagna, Marche, Umbria, Lazio
Wine provinces
Siena, Grosseto, Livorno, Prato, Florence, Arezzo, Pisa, Pistoia, Lucca, Massa-Carrara

The land

About two thirds of Tuscany is hills. The Apennines close it off to the north and east, and the Tyrrhenian Sea lies to the west.

The central hills, home to Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano, have warm days and cool nights. The coast, from Bolgheri down through the Maremma, is warmer and more even.

The classic hill soils are galestro, a flaky marl, and alberese, a harder limestone. The coast has more gravel, sand and clay.

The grapes

Sangiovese is behind almost every important red. It goes by Brunello in Montalcino, Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano and Morellino in Scansano.

Canaiolo and Colorino are its traditional partners. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot lead on the coast. The whites are Trebbiano Toscano, Vernaccia and Vermentino.

Which grape leads which appellation

Sangiovese 11
Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Chianti, Chianti Classico, Montecucco Sangiovese, Morellino di Scansano, Rosso della Val di Cornia (Val di Cornia Rosso), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Barco Reale di Carmignano, Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano
Trebbiano Toscano 2
Bianco dell'Empolese, Bianco di Pitigliano
Aleatico 1
Elba Aleatico Passito
Cabernet Sauvignon 1
Bolgheri Sassicaia
Inzolia 1
Ansonica Costa dell'Argentario
Moscato Bianco 1
Moscadello di Montalcino
Vermentino 1
Candia dei Colli Apuani
Vernaccia di San Gimignano 1
Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Local names

Alicante
Cannonau (Grenache), in Morellino di Scansano, Maremma Toscana
Ansonica
Inzolia, in Ansonica Costa dell'Argentario, Elba, Maremma Toscana, Parrina, Val di Cornia
Brunello
Sangiovese, in Brunello di Montalcino
Morellino
Sangiovese, in Morellino di Scansano
Procanico
Trebbiano Toscano, in Elba
Prugnolo Gentile
Sangiovese, in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulciano

In the vineyard and cellar

Large Slavonian oak casks were the rule until barriques arrived with the Super Tuscans. Many estates have since gone back to larger wood.

Vin Santo is made from dried grapes aged for years in small sealed barrels. Governo, a second fermentation started with dried grapes, is the old way of softening young Chianti.

History and trade

Cosimo III de' Medici set the boundaries of Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano and Val d'Arno di Sopra in 1716. Bettino Ricasoli wrote down the Chianti blend in 1872.

Sassicaia and Tignanello broke the rules around 1970 and were sold as table wine. Chianti Classico has been a separate DOCG from Chianti since 1996.

The DOCGs

Oldest first. The year is when each one became a DOCG.

AppellationDOCG sinceGrapesWhere
Brunello di Montalcino1980Sangiovese (100%, locally called Brunello)Siena
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano1980Sangiovese (min 70%, locally Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo, Mammolo, ColorinoSiena
Chianti1984Sangiovese (min 70%), Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet, Merlot, small allowance of white grapesFlorence, Siena, Arezzo, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato
Carmignano1990Sangiovese (min 50%), Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc (10 to 20%), Canaiolo, MerlotPrato
Vernaccia di San Gimignano1993Vernaccia di San Gimignano (min 85%)Siena
Morellino di Scansano2007Sangiovese (min 85%, locally Morellino), Alicante, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, CabernetGrosseto
Elba Aleatico Passito2011Aleatico (100%)Livorno
Montecucco Sangiovese2011Sangiovese (min 90%)Grosseto
Rosso della Val di Cornia (Val di Cornia Rosso)2011Sangiovese (min 40%), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (up to 60% combined)Livorno
Suvereto2011Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, SangioveseLivorno
Chianti ClassicoSangiovese (min 80%), Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, MerlotHills between Florence and Siena: Greve, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castellina, Castelnuovo Berardenga, San Casciano, and neighboring communes

The DOCs

AppellationDOC sinceGrapesWhere
Ansonica Costa dell'Argentario1995Ansonica (min 85%, the Sicilian Inzolia)Grosseto
Barco Reale di CarmignanoSangiovese (min 50%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Canaiolo; Trebbiano and Malvasia for Vin SantoPrato
Bianco dell'Empolese1989Trebbiano Toscano (min 80%), other local whitesFlorence
Bianco di Pitigliano1966Trebbiano Toscano (min 40%), Greco, Malvasia, Verdello, Grechetto, Chardonnay, SauvignonGrosseto
Bolgheri1983Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese; Vermentino for whiteLivorno
Bolgheri SassicaiaCabernet Sauvignon (min 80%), Cabernet FrancLivorno
Candia dei Colli Apuani1981Vermentino (min 70% for bianco), Albarola, Trebbiano; Sangiovese, Merlot, Massaretta, Vermentino Nero for redsMassa-Carrara
Capalbio1999Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trebbiano, VermentinoGrosseto
Colli dell'Etruria Centrale1990Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Trebbiano, Malvasia, ChardonnayFlorence, Siena, Arezzo, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato
Colline Lucchesi1968Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Canaiolo; Trebbiano, Vermentino, Grechetto for whitesLucca
Cortona1999Syrah (the signature), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, SangioveseArezzo
Elba1967Trebbiano Toscano (Procanico), Ansonica, Vermentino; Sangiovese, AleaticoLivorno
Grance Senesi2010Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot; Malvasia Bianca, TrebbianoSiena
Maremma Toscana2011Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Ciliegiolo, Alicante (Grenache); Vermentino, Ansonica, ViognierGrosseto
Montecarlo1969Trebbiano Toscano with Sémillon, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, Roussanne, Vermentino for white; Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet for redLucca
Montecucco1998Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vermentino, TrebbianoGrosseto
Monteregio di Massa Marittima1994Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vermentino, Trebbiano, MalvasiaGrosseto
Montescudaio1977Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Trebbiano, Vermentino, ChardonnayPisa
Moscadello di Montalcino1984Moscato BiancoSiena
Orcia2000Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trebbiano, MalvasiaSiena
Parrina1971Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ansonica, Trebbiano, VermentinoGrosseto
Pomino1983Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero, Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet SauvignonFlorence
Rosso di Montalcino1984Sangiovese (100%)Siena
Rosso di Montepulciano1989Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile, min 70%), Canaiolo, Mammolo, MerlotSiena
San Gimignano1996Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Malvasia, TrebbianoSiena
San Torpè1980Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, MalvasiaPisa, Livorno
Sant'Antimo1996Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Trebbiano, MalvasiaSiena
Sovana1999Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, AleaticoGrosseto
Terratico di Bibbona2006Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Vermentino, TrebbianoLivorno
Terre di Casole2007Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, TrebbianoSiena
Terre di Pisa2011Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, SyrahPisa
Val d'Arbia1985Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Sangiovese (for Rosato and Occhio di Pernice)Siena
Val d'Arno di Sopra (Valdarno di Sopra)2011Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay, Trebbiano, MalvasiaArezzo
Val di Cornia1989Vermentino, Ansonica, Trebbiano, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, AleaticoLivorno
Valdichiana Toscana1972Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay, Grechetto, Pinot Bianco, SangioveseArezzo, Siena
Valdinievole1976Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia, Vermentino, Chardonnay, SangiovesePistoia
Vin Santo del Chianti1997Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca, Sangiovese (Occhio di Pernice)Florence, Siena, Arezzo, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato
Vin Santo del Chianti Classico1997Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca, Sangiovese (Occhio di Pernice)Florence, Siena
Vin Santo di Carmignano1997Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca, Sangiovese (Occhio di Pernice)Prato
Vin Santo di Montepulciano1996Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca, Grechetto, Sangiovese (Occhio di Pernice)Siena

Facts that get tested

The kind of thing an exam asks about Tuscany. Cover the answers and try them.

  1. When can Brunello di Montalcino first be sold?

    1 January of the fifth year after harvest. The Riserva waits one more year, until the sixth.

  2. How long must Brunello di Montalcino spend in wood?

    At least 2 years. Two years in oak and at least four months in bottle, inside a total of more than four years before release.

  3. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is made mainly from

    Sangiovese. The town is Montepulciano but the grape is Sangiovese, known there as Prugnolo Gentile. The Montepulciano grape belongs to Abruzzo and the Marche.

  4. From which vintage were white grapes banned from Chianti Classico?

    2006. Trebbiano and Malvasia were once required, then optional, then banned from 2006.

  5. What is the top tier of Chianti Classico?

    Gran Selezione. Gran Selezione was added above Riserva in 2014. It must come from the estate's own grapes and age for at least 30 months.

  6. What are Chianti Classico's UGAs, approved in 2021?

    Eleven village-level areas that can be named on Gran Selezione. Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive include Radda, Gaiole, Castellina, Panzano and Lamole.

  7. Which symbol marks every bottle of Chianti Classico?

    A black rooster. The Gallo Nero was the emblem of the medieval Lega del Chianti.

  8. Which of these is not a subzone of Chianti DOCG?

    Classico. Chianti Classico has been a separate DOCG since 1996. Chianti has seven subzones, including Rufina, Colli Senesi and Montalbano.

  9. Which Chianti subzone, northeast of Florence, is known for the most structured and long lived wines?

    Rufina. Rufina is the smallest and highest of the seven, cooled by air from the Apennines.

  10. Which Tuscan DOCG required Cabernet in its blend long before the Super Tuscans?

    Carmignano. Cabernet has grown at Carmignano since the Medici. The rules ask for 10% to 20% alongside Sangiovese.

  11. Which is Tuscany's only white DOCG?

    Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It was also Italy's first DOC, in 1966, and was promoted in 1993.

  12. What is galestro?

    A flaky, crumbly marl found in Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Galestro breaks apart easily and drains well. Alberese, its partner, is a harder limestone.

  13. How were the first Super Tuscans labelled?

    Vino da tavola. They used grapes or methods the DOC rules did not allow, so they dropped to the lowest category. IGT Toscana came later, in the 1990s.

  14. Bolgheri, home of Sassicaia and Ornellaia, is in which province?

    Livorno. It lies on the coast in the commune of Castagneto Carducci.

  15. Elba's DOCG is for which wine?

    A sweet red passito from Aleatico. Elba Aleatico Passito is one of very few sweet red DOCGs.

  16. Morellino di Scansano comes from which part of Tuscany?

    The Maremma, in the province of Grosseto. Morellino is the local name for Sangiovese, which must be at least 85% of the blend.

Think you've got it?

Twenty questions on Tuscany, with every wrong answer drawn from the region and its neighbours.

Quiz me on Tuscany